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Birdwatching is right up there as well; the bird list is long and colourful and some islands are so remote that new species still turn up.

Don't miss the local crafts either – the islanders turn out some of the Pacific's most beautiful wooden bowls.

Limited flights, poor internal transport and infrastructure, a nasty local civil war, and some particularly exotic strains of malaria have all put travellers off in the past.

Today, travel is easier, even the mosquitos aren't so threatening, although you still need insect repellent and anti-malarials.

You fly over an awful lot of untouched jungle and towering mountains as you cross the island from the southern Weathercoast.

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